Lyon is France’s third largest city, and its location in the eastern part of the country makes it a gateway to the Alps, and an easy day trip from Geneva across the Swiss border. While most would skip over cities like Lyon for the capital of Paris for obvious reasons and stunning cities in the south of France like Nice, Lyon has an energy all of it’s own and is well worth checking out.

Lyon feels lived-in, gritty in parts, but alive, with well-worn buildings painted over with stunning displays of street art and murals like you’ve never seen.

The city is split by the Rhône and Saône rivers that run through it, and sitting between Provence and Burgundy has earned Lyon a status as a real foodie city, and you’d be remiss to not dine at a traditional bouchon, also known as a traditional Lyonnaise tavern.

From world-class gastronomy to a stunning old town, Lyon has plenty to offer a visitor. It may be a big city, but truthfully, to the average visitor, you’ll most likely stick downtown and not really need to rely on public transport that much to make the most out of your trip, compared to say, Paris.

Thankfully, Lyon is relatively walkable, but bear in mind it’s not a flat city so you’ll need decent walking shoes and a good amount of energy to hit the ground running while touring this hilly city.

Looking for a list of what there is to see and do? This guide has got you covered with some of my favourite experiences and places you shouldn’t miss on a city break.

What to See

Wander Around Vieux Lyon

Vieux Lyon, or Old Lyon, is the natural jumping point for any traveller. The painfully beautiful old city lies at the foot of the Basilica of Notre Dame of Fourvière, where every corner you turn seems more picturesque than the last.

You’ll naturally find cobblestoned streets and medieval churches, and after visiting the Saint-Jean-Baptiste Cathedral, you shouldn’t miss the chance to take the trek up the aforementioned Basilica. You can do this by foot or get the quintessential Lyonnaise experience of getting up via the funicular. The 19th century basilica features ornate architecture of a mix of byzantine, gothic and romanesque influences. The elaborate interior is absolutely stunning, and the sweeping mosaics are a real feast for the eyes.

Once you’ve discovered the basilica, be sure to head behind it to find a beautiful view of the city skyline, where you can see a handful of modern, towering buildings in the distance away from the storied old town, a perfect visual representation of how the new and old mix in this city.

Discover Roman Ruins

From the basilica, hop on over next door to the Gallo Roman Museum of Lyon-Fourvière, which features an archaeological site on the slopes of the very hill which birthed the Roman city of Lugdunum in 43 B.C..

To ensure the museum built onsite wouldn’t upset the surrounding physical settings, architect Bernard Zehrfuss decided to bury the museum underground, which means it’s almost invisible from the outside as it blends perfectly into the landscape.

The museum itself is well worth the €4 admission (€7 if there is a temporary exhibition going on), as it houses a vast archaeological collection. And if your visit to Lyon takes place over the first Sunday of the month, entry to the museum is free!

Explore La Croix-Rousse

The 4th arrondissement of Lyon, also known as La Croix-Rousse, is one of the most happening districts in the northern part of the city.

Be sure to take Montée de la Grande-Côte when you walk over from downtown, as this picturesque street lined with pastel-coloured buildings takes you up into the hills of La Croix-Rousse. This busy thoroughfare is how locals get up and down the hill without using public transport or a car, and also features some unique boutiques stores and bars that overlook the passageway.

While you’re here, make sure you visit Traboule et Cour des Voraces. This hidden passageway (traboule) features a multi-level staircase that fans of brutalist architecture will love. Visit it once in daylight and another time after night falls to see the illuminated staircase give off a haunting feeling. Bear in mind that this is an actual residential block still in use, so be respectful regarding the privacy of residents here.

Traboules came about as the population of Lyon exploded and new buildings kept coming up with total disregard for urban planning, thus these hidden passageways were born. It’s estimated that only about 5% of all of these ‘secret’ pathways are open to the public.

Admire Street Art in the Form of Sprawling Murals

While still in La Croix-Rousse, head over to Mur des Canuts. This large mural is one of many that are meant to represent local life in Lyon. This 1,200 m² mural is meant to be an optical illusion (trompe-l’oeil), and is the largest mural in Europe. It plays with real-life perspective, with an impressive amount of depth and realism making you question if what you’re seeing is real or just a painting. This one in particular depicts the life of silk workers in the 19th century.

From Mur des Canuts, walk on over to Fresque des Lyonnais on the banks of the river Saône — this 800m² mural represents famous people from Lyon, including 25 historical ones and 6 modern ones.

These huge murals are so unique because they literally look like actual buildings, and are a reflection of the city throughout history, while simultaneously blending into the cityscape.

Enter the Centre of Lyon at Place Bellecour

Place Bellecour is the beating heart of the city, and the central focal point of Lyon. It’s the largest pedestrian square in Lyon, with the landmark equestrian statue of Louis XIV in the centre of it all.

From here, stroll down the streets and discover Lyon’s shopping boulevards.

Stop by Place des Jacobins, another famous square which features a marble fountain, then discover Le Bal des Ardents, a stunning bookstore with a huge collection of books.

If you’d prefer a cultured afternoon instead, the Museum of Fine Arts of Lyon is not far, and is situated in a former 17th century abbey.

Explore the City’s Sprawling Parc de la Tête d’Or

Located a little outside of the city centre, this park is one of the largest green urban spaces in France. Here, you’ll find rose gardens, a botanical garden with more than 10, 000 botanical species and is recognised for the richness of it’s collections.

Where to Eat and Drink

Bouchons

As mentioned, a typical Lyonnais experience is to go to a traditional tavern (bouchon). And if you’re worried about not going to an authentic, official Lyonnais Bouchon, Lyon makes it easy. The Lyon Chamber of Commerce and Industry, in partnership with Lyon Tourism and the city’s bouchons, developed an official label which you’ll find at these restaurants.

On the official list, you’ll find the likes of Le Bouchon Sully, L’Acteur, Daniel & Denise, Bouchon des Cordeliers, Les Fines Geules, L’Auberge des Canuts and more.

Restaurants

Lyon’s culinary reputation doesn’t stop at the traditional taverns. You’ll find plenty of fantastic restaurants in the city, including Les Infidèles, El Chivito, Cocotte, Bistrot Orcia, Une Affaire de Goût, ART, L’atelier des saveurs, MIMO and more.

Coffee and Brunch

Looking for a daytime option instead? Lyon has no shortage of trendy coffee bars and brunch places. Try Burning Cat, Coffee Mãe, Rakwé, La Boîte à Café, Mokxa Boutique Grand Hôtel-Dieu, Puzzle Cafe, Slake Coffee House, Café Joyeux Lyon, NEWTREE Café Guichard, LOUTSA Lyon Massena, or Kachka for a cuppa.

For brunch, check out Milk & Pug, Les Papas Sucrés, Yummy Pancakes, TOMĒ, or Bartholomé.

The Best Place to Stay in Lyon for Travellers

For any traveller to Lyon, it would make the most sense to stay downtown as the majority of Lyon’s sights are situated here, so pick from any of the following from Vieux Lyon (the old town and 5th arrondissement), the area around Place Bellecour (the 2nd arrondissement), the right bank of the Saône River (1st arrondissement) and La Croix-Rousse (4th arrondissement), and the right bank of the Rhône River (3rd arrondissement). These all make for great areas to base yourself.

All of these locations are central enough that you’ll not really need to rely on public transport to get around.

Best Day Trips from Lyon

There are no shortage of day trip options from Lyon, from taking on the wine trail at the vineyards of the Beaujolais region, to the medieval city of Avignon, to the city that founded the traditional mustard Dijon which is also another city famed for gastronomy, to traipsing through fairytale villages like Annecy, or crossing the Swiss border into the pristine city of Geneva — there’s definitely something for everyone.